How to Spot Authentic Vintage Carhartt Pieces

Carhartt has become one of the most sought-after brands in the vintage and thrift fashion scene. Known for its durability, timeless designs, and rugged workwear aesthetic, vintage Carhartt pieces can elevate any wardrobe. But with their rise in popularity, counterfeit and reworked items have flooded the market—making it harder to know if you're getting the real deal.

In this guide, we'll break down how to spot authentic vintage Carhartt pieces, from labels to materials and manufacturing details.

1. Check the Label

Labels are one of the easiest ways to date and authenticate vintage Carhartt pieces. Here’s what to look for:

• Union Made Labels (1970s–1980s): Older Carhartt jackets and trousers often have a white or blue label with “Union Made in the USA” text. This indicates the piece was manufactured before Carhartt outsourced production.
• Square Carhartt Patch (1980s–1990s): The iconic square Carhartt logo patch sewn onto jackets and trousers typically features a golden-yellow background with a red or brown “C.” Check the stitching—authentic patches have neat, consistent borders.
• Made in USA Tags (1990s–Early 2000s): If your piece has a “Made in USA” tag, you're holding onto one of the last batches before Carhartt shifted production overseas.
• WIP Tags (Work in Progress): If the label says Carhartt WIP, it's a more modern fashion line designed for the European market, not a true vintage workwear piece.

2. Materials & Construction

Vintage Carhartt is known for its high-quality materials that stand the test of time. Pay attention to:

• Duck Canvas: The heavy-duty cotton fabric is stiff, durable, and typically fades beautifully over time. Authentic vintage pieces often have a worn-in patina.
• Blanket-Lined Jackets: Classic pieces like the Detroit Jacket or Chore Coat often feature a striped blanket lining—another sign of vintage authenticity.
• Triple-Stitched Seams: Carhartt uses triple-stitching on key seams to increase durability. If the stitching looks loose or uneven, it's likely a fake.

3. Zippers & Hardware

Hardware is a small detail that can tell you a lot about authenticity:

• Talon or YKK Zippers: Vintage Carhartt jackets often use Talon or YKK-branded zippers, especially on pieces from the 1980s and 1990s.
• Brass Snaps & Buttons: Genuine pieces will have sturdy brass buttons or snaps, often with the Carhartt logo embossed on them.

4. Fit & Sizing

Older Carhartt pieces tend to have boxier, oversized fits compared to modern cuts. If a jacket feels too slim or fitted, it might be a reproduction or altered piece.

5. Signs of Wear

Authentic vintage Carhartt pieces often come with signs of wear like fading, stains, or minor rips—especially around the cuffs and elbows. These imperfections add character and tell a story, making each piece unique.

Final Thoughts

Spotting authentic vintage Carhartt pieces takes practice, but paying attention to the details can save you from buying fakes. Always inspect labels, materials, stitching, and hardware before making a purchase.

At Digg Vintage, we're committed to curating only genuine vintage pieces—because true vintage isn't just about the look, it's about the legacy.

Check out our latest Carhartt drops and shop authentic vintage pieces now!